Sunday 24 March 2013

M on the Bund restaurant, Shanghai

Michelle Garnaut's  M on the Bund in Shanghai opened its doors in 1999. It's one of two sister restaurants of her legendary M at the Fringe in Hong Kong, which has unfortunately closed after 20 successful years.

The M on the Bund overlooks one of Shanghai's most spectacular views, The Bund - hence the name. If outside temperatures allow, one should always go for the terrace, with it's breathtaking views - especially at nigh.
 
It should be mentioned that the M on the Bund conveniently has one of Shanghai's most spectacular bars in the same venue, the M Glamour Bar. So you can get all it takes for a fantastic night out in one and the same place!

The M on the Bund serves modern international cuisine, deeply rooted in traditional European cooking techniques. Executive Chef Hamish Pollitt demonstrates great passion for experimenting with locally sourced, as well as imported ingredients.

If "experimenting" sounds like  molecular cuisine, or smears of deconstructed pea puree on variations of horseradish and apple gel, well then this is a misunderstanding. Hamish Pollitt's experiments are more focused on getting the best flavor and texture results out of the perfect ingredients, seasoning and highly skillful cooking techniques.

Two great examples of what these experiments result in, are his Head-To-Tail Terrine and the Crispy Suckling Pig (see pictures).
The title "Head-To-Tail Terrine" reminds me of Fergus Henderson's philosophy of Nose to Tail Cooking - a most suitable approach to the concept of terrine. The terrine itself has a great texture with chunky bits and pieces and a perfectly seasoned gelatinous body, hitting the right balance of flavor and acidity. This is terrine how it should be - served with pickled cucumbers and toasted sourdough bread. All in all a rare treat.

The Crispy Suckling Pig is absolutely delicious. If you don't have reservations against eating baby animals, this is pork at it's best. A classic European dish, served in the culinary environment that took crispy pork skin to perfection. The pork itself is moist and perfectly seasoned.

A very fond memory I have of the M on the Bund perfectly illustrates the quality of the service. I've been dining there with friends, and after the waiters realized it was one of my friends' birthday, they produced a lovely surprise birthday cake for desert. Something like this has never happened to me in a London restaurant. The team there is obviously passionate about their work and they'll do whatever they can to create a memorable dining experience - with the food as the core event but service and the scenery are not falling short. Highly recommendable! And don't forget to check out the bar...

M on the Bund
7/F, No.5 The Bund ( corner of Guangdong Lu )
Shanghai 200002 China
中国上海市外滩广东路20号7楼
邮编 200002
Tel (86 -21) 6350-9988
Fax (86-21) 6322-0099



M Glamour Bar
6/F, No.5 The Bund (corner of Guangdong Lu)
Shanghai 200002 China
中国上海市外滩广东路20号6楼
邮编 200002
Tel: (86-21) 6329 3751


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